Indianapolis Lost Its Famous Brunch Spot, but Something New Already Took Its Place
Milktooth opened in 2014 in Indianapolis’ Fletcher Place neighborhood and quickly turned into a national name. Chef Jonathan Brooks built it around the fact that breakfast didn’t have to play by the usual rules.
The menu included unexpected combinations. Diners could find Dutch baby pancakes packed with ingredients like chorizo, Manchego cheese, or Brussels sprouts. Other dishes were pushed even further, with items like oysters+ or beef bourguignon appearing during brunch hours. This approach helped the restaurant land on major lists within its first year, including Food & Wine’s Best New Chef recognition for Brooks in 2015 and Bon Appétit’s Hot 10.
The momentum kept going. Milktooth earned global praise, picked up multiple James Beard semifinalist nods, and even got its own city holiday in Indianapolis. It became the kind of place people planned trips around.
A Sudden Pivot That Wasn’t Forced
By December 2025, Brooks made it clear that the next move had nothing to do with slowing business. The decision came from wanting something different after nearly 12 years of running the same concept. Milktooth has officially closed after its final service on April 26, 2026. Just days later, on April 30, the same space reopened as Arlene’s.
The change seems dramatic on paper, but the core team is intact. Staff members are staying on, and the open kitchen setup remains. Even the schedule will remain the same, with daytime service still leading the way and occasional evening pop-ups continuing. What changes is the focus on the plate.
Comfort Food Is Front and Center
Arlene’s will feature a “meat-and-three” format, a style tied to Southern dining traditions dating back to the early 1900s. The setup is straightforward: pick one main dish and three sides.
The menu is full of comfort. Fried chicken, meatloaf, blackened walleye, smoked roast beef, and even a wagyu hot dog are expected to anchor the mains. Sides include mac and cheese, turnip greens with ham hocks, green beans, cornbread, and seasonal options such as fried green tomatoes or okra.
Brooks’ connection to the South plays a big role here. His family ties to Tennessee and childhood trips shaped the direction, along with memories of home cooking led by his mother, Arlene, who inspired the restaurant’s name. There is still room for flexibility. Brunch items and coffee will stick around in some form, which softens the blow for longtime fans.
Fans React While the City Moves On
Image via Canva/Felicia Manolache’s Images
The reaction has been mixed since the announcement. Some see the move as a bold reset that keeps things fresh, while others feel like a defining piece of the city’s dining identity is disappearing. The tension makes sense. Milktooth helped push Indianapolis into the national spotlight and influenced how other local spots approached daytime dining.
At the same time, the brunch scene it helped create has grown. New restaurants focused on breakfast and brunch continue to open across the city. Brooks himself pointed out one gap that still exists: there hasn’t been a true meat-and-three spot in the area. But that gap is about to close.